We always try to classify our trips as either relaxing or adventurous. While most of our getaways tilt toward relaxation, a rare few are pure adventure from start to finish. Our trip to Finland in March of this year was exactly that.
Flying from Seattle to Helsinki requires a layover. Having made this journey many times, we have experimented with various routes, but our favorite remains flying Icelandair via Reykjavik (Keflavik). The Keflavik airport is small but incredibly efficient. A layover of less than an hour and a half is a tight window, but it is just enough time to clear customs and officially enter the European Union.
Because it is an overnight flight, we landed at Helsinki Airport (HEL) in the early afternoon on a Saturday. We fell right into our well-established arrival routine: grab the rental car or take the train to downtown Helsinki, check into the hotel, grab drinks, hit the sauna, and unlock vacation mode.
Accommodation: Hotel U14, Helsinki
Mid-March still brings proper winter weather to the Nordics, and Helsinki did not disappoint. It was cold, frozen, and majestic—just as we know and love it. We took a short stroll through the market square, made a mandatory quick visit to the white cathedral, enjoyed a cold beer on the street under outdoor heaters, and grabbed some street food from the market before calling it a night. We spent the next two days adjusting to the timezone and the weather while prepping for our journey deep north into Lapland. It was a pleasant blur of city walks, drinks, great food, catching up with friends, saunas, and a bit of occasional shopping.
On Monday evening, we packed our bags and headed to Helsinki Central Station to board the night train to Rovaniemi. We booked a sleeper cabin with an en-suite toilet and shower. Riding the night train is always a fantastic experience, and having dinner in the restaurant car is an absolute must.
We arrived in Rovaniemi the next morning, picked up our rental car, and headed further north, making a mandatory stop at Santa’s Village first. Even though we have visited this complex multiple times across different seasons, we always love stopping by. The first thing that caught our attention was the lack of snow—it had completely melted, which is highly unusual for March. Apparently, the locals had experienced a brutally cold January and February, so they welcomed the unseasonable warmth as a much-needed break before the end of the winter season. While we were hoping for a winter wonderland, we understand how unpredictable nature can be. After a quick breakfast, a bit of shopping, and a walk around, we hit the road for Saariselkä.
We absolutely love Saariselkä! From Mussi Burgeri and Panimo to the shopping center, ski tracks, and forest trails, the town is an absolute gem. We stayed at the Aurora Collection and loved everything about the resort—the coziness of the cabin, the private sauna and hot tub, the stunning views, the breakfast delivered directly to your door every morning, and the convenient shuttle service. While there are plenty of places to stay in Saariselkä, the Aurora Collection is one we highly recommend.
The local food scene felt more diverse than in previous years with plenty of new establishments. The area is clearly developing fast into a major northern ski resort to compete with Ruka and Levi. To be honest, we are not sure we like this rapid expansion. Some of the seasonal workers did not quite fit the vibe we envisioned and delivered underwhelming service, but it is what it is. On the bright side, Mestabaari, add restaurants here, and our stay at the Aurora Collection were wonderful, memorable highlights.
After three fantastic nights in Saariselkä, we headed to our next stop: Levi. This was a destination we had never visited before, and it is a place we likely won't return to. My biggest issue with Levi is that it lacks the authenticity and closeness to nature that you find in Saariselkä and Ruka. It feels highly westernized, modernized, and designed primarily to commercialize the tourist experience.
We stayed at the Levi Sensu Sky Igloo, which was decent but nothing extraordinary, and the cleanliness could be improved. However, we loved the glass roof and were lucky enough to catch the Northern Lights. Arcandia was somewhat of a disappointment, as were the downtown pubs and bars. We struggled to find a good spot to eat in the center, though we did thoroughly enjoy our dinner at Levin Iglut. While I cannot speak for their igloo accommodations, the restaurant itself was lovely.
After three nights in Levi, it was time to start the long journey back south. Because the drive to Helsinki is quite long, we split it into two days and spent a night breaking up the drive in Oulu.
Once back in Helsinki, we spent one final night freshening up before flying to Reykjavik for a two-night stopover. We always break up the journey home with a two-night stay in Iceland, always stay at The Reykjavik EDITION, and always visit both the Sky Lagoon and the Blue Lagoon. It is a firm travel tradition of ours, and it never disappoints. Both lagoons were amazing, and we cannot recommend them enough.
It was the perfect conclusion to an adventurous vacation we affectionately called "Saunas and Snow"—even if the snow did not quite cooperate this time around.
Overall, this trip was an 8/10. Helsinki, Saariselkä, and Reykjavik were fantastic. Levi missed the mark for us, though it is entirely possible our expectations were simply too high.
